By Abdelfattah M. Seyam
College of Textiles, NC State University
Raleigh, NC, USA
INTRODUCTION
At the 14th ITMA show, weaving and weaving preparation equipment occupied a significant share of the number of halls at the National Exhibition Center (NEC) in Birmingham, UK despite the absence of the Japanese weaving machine manufacturers. This ITMA broke the records in terms of attendance. Additionally, the sales were significant. The success of weaving and weaving preparation machine makers at ITMA 2003 may be attributed to the realized advances that provide weavers with low power consumption, flexibility and versatility while weaving at high speed. This ITMA has brought to cotton weavers major technological advances that provide weavers with ability to pre-program their machines digitally using friendly interfaces, produce broad range of woven fabrics, manufacture intricate jacquard designs at the speed of commodity fabrics, and inspect fabrics on-loom.
This report reviews new development in weaving and weaving preparation at ITMA 2003 with focus on cotton weaving. The report follows the flow chart of processes from package winding to fabric formation.
WINDING
Muratec showed their No.21C winder. The new features of the winder include: (a) New anti-patterning mechanism, Pac21, (b) Air type yarn hairiness reduction system, Perla-A, and (c) Disc type yarn hairiness reduction system, Perla-D. Perla-A (Figure 1) uses a compressed air while Perla-D (Figure 2) uses discs that are derived by servomotor to false twist the yarn. The false twist causes yarn hair to wrap around the yarn body a matter that reduces hairiness. The winding speed of Perla-A and Perla-D could reach 1,800 m/min and 1,200 m/min respectively. Yarn hairiness comparison is shown in Figure 3. It is claimed that yarns produced using No.21C winder have the following advantages over yarns produced on conventional winders: high productivity in warping and sizing processes, improved weaving efficiency in air jet weaving due to less warp clinging caused by hairiness, reduced size agent consumption that leads to lower sizing and de-sizing cost, and reduce fly generation
Figure 1 Hairiness reduction by air (Perla-A)
Figure 2 Hairiness reduction by friction discs (Perla-D)
Figure 3 Comparison of yarn hairiness of different systems
WARPING
Automatic section warpers were showed by Benninger and Karl Mayer, the BEN-MATIC and Rob-o-matic ROB respectively. The Benninger's BEN-MATIC was unveiled at ITMA 2003. While the Karl Mayer's ROB was shown for the first time at ATME-I' 2001. The BEN-MATIC performs the following steps automatically with no intervention from the operator: (a) The new band is firmly attached to the pattern drum by adhesive foil tape, which is automatically attached to the band (Figure 4), (b) Using two conventional lease reeds, the band is split to two sheets to form a shed. (c) To obtain clear separation between the two sheets (clear shed), a split arm is inserted between the two sheets to overcome clinging due to yarn hairiness (Figure 5), (d) The lease insertion system (insertion arm, knotter, lease thread feeder, air system) inserts lease threads (as many as required) in a loop form through the shed (Figures 6 a and b), (e) Adhesive tape is attached to the band, band cutting is performed, and end of band is attached to the pattern drum, and (f) The final leasing (Figure 7) and setting for beaming require the operator intervention.
Figure 4 Adhesive foil tape
Figure 5 Clear shed by split arm
Figure 6-a Lease arm and lease thread
Figure 6-b Lease thread in loop form
Figure 7 Final leasing
In case of Karl Mayer's ROB, the formation of shed is achieved by harnesses similar to those used in weaving. The insertion of lease bars is achieved by a pneumatically operated gripper (Figure 8). The bands are cut after warping is completed. The cutting and beaming require the operator intervention.
Figure 8: Shed open(left), Lease bar and gripper (right)
SIZING
Benninger unveiled a new development in pre-wet sizing, the TKV pre-wet/size box. The TKV includes a pre-wetting bath and size box (Figure 9). The system is flexible in that the pre-wetting bath can be used as a second size box in case of treating warps that do not need pre-wetting.
Figure 9 Benninger's TKV pre-wet size box
Karl Mayer showed a new pre-wet sizing system, type MPCPW. The system consists of a pre-wetting tank with double squeeze, at entry and in exiting (Figure 10), and double dip size box. The system is designed with a short distance between the pre-wet and size boxes to prevent the warp yarns from kinking and cooling.
Figure 10 Karl Mayer's pre-wet size box
DRAWING-IN
Staubli presented the OPAL (Figure 11), a new automatic leasing machine for leasing warp yarns. The OPAL can combine several warp sheets (from one to eight sheets) of multi-colors or single color into one lease to prepare such warp for automatic drawing-in or tying-in (Figure 12). The leasing process is fully automated once the operator programs the required color sequence using a touch screen. The machine is equipped with a camera system to ensure correct yarn color order as programmed by preventing doubles and distinguishing between threads of different colors. Depending on the application, the leasing speed of the OPAL is up to 100,000 threads per 8-hour shift. The OPAL provides weavers employing direct warpers the opportunity to make the process of producing stripped warp as easy as those using sectional warpers.
Figure 11 Staubli's OPAL automatic leasing machine
Figure 12 Leasing multi-colors warp sheets
WEAVING
Significant number of weaving machines was shown at this ITMA. It is worth mentioning that the marriage of air jet and new jacquard technology resulted in higher speed of jacquard weaving that has never been seen before. Today, jacquard weaving manufacturing cost is almost the same as weaving commodity fabrics. Additionally, the variety of fabrics woven at ITMA 2003 was broader than ever and characterized by intricate designs and industrial applications. The show speeds reported here were collected from brochures and signs posted at booths. In terms of filling insertion systems, only two projectile looms were shown and the air jet and rapier machines were about equally exhibited. Significant number of weaving machines was shown weaving cotton and cotton blends. Table 1 shows the total number of machines and the number of machines set with cotton or cotton blends that were exhibited at this ITMA by the major makers. The number of machines that were weaving cotton or cotton blends represented 45% of the total machines.
Table 1: Number of machines set with cotton| Company | Total Number of Machines | Machine Weaving Cotton |
| Dornier | 6 | 2 |
| Picanol | 11 | 5 |
| Promatech | 11 | 6 |
| Smit | 9 | 2 |
| Sultex | 10 | 6 |
Table 2 shows the machines types that were weaving cotton and cotton blends fabrics along with weaving speed and type of fabrics. It can be concluded from Tables 1 and 2 that cotton weaving was given great deal of attention at this ITMA. Additionally, it is obvious that machine makers provided range of machines that are capable of producing intricate fabrics at high filling insertion rate.
Table 2: Types of cotton and cotton blends fabrics| Company | Machine Type | Fabric | Speed, picks/min | RFI, m/min |
| Dornier | PTS12/J, 180 cm Rapier with on-the-fly pattern change | Jacquard Upholstery/Furnishing | 580 600 | 930 |
| Dornier | ATVF8/J, 260 cm Air Jet, ServoTerry | Jacquard Terry Bath Towel with Variable Pile Height | 600 700 | 1,750 |
| Picanol | GamMax-6-R 190 Rapier | Shirting | 720 | 1,138 |
| Picanol | GamMax-4-R 360 Rapier | Denim | 420 | 1,482 |
| Picanol | OMNIplus-2-P 280 Air Jet | Sheeting | 770 | 2,202 |
| Picanol | TERRYplus-6-J 260 Air Jet, Servo Control Pile | Jacquard Terry | 630 | 1,512 |
| Picanol | OMNIplus-6-J 250 Air Jet | Jacquard Mattress Ticking and Table Cloth | 1,025 | 2,460 |
| Promatech | ALPHA 320 cm Rapier | Jacquard Upholstery | 480 | 1,433 |
| Promatech | Leonardo 260 cm Rapier | Jacquard Terry Towel | 450 | 1,132 |
| Promatech | Mythos 210 cm Air Jet | Apparel | 850 | 1,445 |
| Promatech | Mythos 340 cm Air Jet | Sheeting | 780 | 2,496 |
| Promatech | Leonardo 210 cm Rapier | Dobby Upholstery | 700 | 1190 |
| Promatech | Leonardo 190 cm Rapier | Shirting | 650 | 1,081 |
| Smit | G6300F Terry-B260 N8 SP Rapier | Terry Towel | 480 | 1,107 |
| Smit | G6300F Terry-B 260 NB J Rapier | Jacquard Terry Towel | 480 | 1,241 |
| Sultex | P7300B390N4SPD12 Projectile | Sateen | 370 | 1,300 |
| Sultex | P73RSPB360N4SPD12 Projectiler | Canvas | 330 | 1,205 |
| Sultex | M8300B190 Multi-phase Air Jet | Dense Twill | 2824 | 4,775 |
| Sultex | L5400B190N2EP Air Jet | Men's Wear | 1,000 | 1,903 |
| Sultex | L5400S210N4SPTL Air Jet | Ladies' Wear | 990 | 2,079 |
| Sultex | G6200B190F8J Rapier | Terry Towel | 480 | 886 |
Multiphase Weaving
The Sultex's M8300 multiphase weaving machine, which was revealed for the first time at ITMA '95, has continued to be one of the main attractions at ITMA 2003. One machine was shown weaving a polyester/cotton dense 2x1 twill fabric of construction 40.5x20.5, 40/1x28/1 (threads/cm and metric count). The fabric was woven at 2,824 picks/min or RFI of 4,775 m/min (Table 2). This is an improvement over the machines shown at last ITMA. One machine then was weaving a much lighter fabric of 2x1 twill and construction 26.4x18.1, 40/1x28/1. This lighter fabric was woven at speed of 2,430 picks/min or 4,118 m/min RFI. The machine is now capable of producing denser fabrics at higher speed than before, which is a sign of improvement. Sultex indicated that the machine can weave plain, 2x1, 3x1 and 2x2 weaves and warp density is limited to a maximum of 45 ends/cm. These simple weaves limit the machine to commodity fabric market.
New Jacquard Shedding Concepts
At ITMA 99 Grosse and Staubli showed new jacquard machines in prototype stage, the UNISHED and the UNIVAL 100. At this ITMA 2003 they continued to show their jacquard machines. While the Grosse's UNISHED is still at the prototype stage, the UNIVAL 100 has been made available for sale. The principle of shed formation of the two machines is different but they have achieved common goals, reduction in the jacquard engine parts. Both of these machines are based on individual control of each warp yarn.
Figures 13 shows Grosse's UNISHED. The shed formation in the UNISHED is achieved by leaf springs that are moved by actuators. Each leaf spring is connected to a heddle that controls one warp end. The configuration of the jacquard head and the individual control of each heddle (or warp end) allow the heddles to be set vertically. These settings permit the elimination of harness cords, magnets, hooks, pulleys, springs, and the gantry. The UNISHED was mounted on Dornier LWV6/J air jet weaving machine with the following specifications:
Fabric: Upholstery Warp Yarn Material: Cotton/Polyester Warp Yarn Count: Nm 70/2 Warp Density: 40 ends/cm Filling Yarn Material: Cotton/Polyester Filling Yarn Count: Nm 70/2 and 32/2 Pick Density: Variable Width in Reed: 142 cm (nominal width: 150 cm) Speed: 800 picks/min RFI: 1,136 m/min
The above parameters are exactly the same as last ITMA.
Figure 13 Grosse's UNISHED Jacquard
The shed formation in the UNIVAL 100 electronic jacquard machine is achieved by controlling each individual warp end by a stepping motor. The harness cord (or warp end) selection is performed electronically and hence fabric design is achieved in the same way as any current electronic jacquard system. The design of the UNVAL 100 permits the elimination of hooks, knives, magnets, and pulleys since each harness cord or heddle is directly attached to a stepping motor. The UNIVAL 100 was running on Picanol OMNIplus-6-J 250 with the following specifications:
The UNIVAL 100 commercial machine seems to have been advanced significantly. In fact this is the highest rate of filling insertion in jacquard weaving history. The UNIVAL design provides the weavers with new opportunities that have never been available before in jacquard shedding. With such a system the shed height can be easily set, several sheds can be formed, etc. All settings can be conducted electronically through a user interface without the need of mechanical adjustments. Another significant feature of the UNIVAL 100 is its independency from weaving machine drive since it has its own drive without mechanical coupling to the weaving machine. In a press release, Staubli indicated that the UNIVAL modular construction enables jacquard capacity range of 5,120-20,480 warp threads (stepping motors). Figure 14 shows the UNIVAL jacquard machine that was set at the Staubli stand.
Style: Mattress Ticking and Table Cloth Warp Yarn Material: Polyester/Cotton Warp Yarn Count: 50/2 Nm Warp Density: 33 ends/cm Filling Yarn Material: Polyester/Cotton + Nylon Filling Yarn Count: 50/2 Nm + 2100 dtex Pick Density: 25-28 picks/cm Width in Reed: 2.4 m Speed: 1,025 picks/min RFI: 2,460 m/min Total # of Ends: 7920 (7920 stepping motors).
Figure 14 UNIVAL 100 Jacquard machine
Variable Pick Density
Dornier, Panter, Picanol, Smit, and Sultex showed air jet and rapier machines equipped with programmable variable pick density. The variation in pick density has been achieved through modularity and controlling electronic let-off and take-up mechanisms via microprocessor. The difference between low and high pick density is one order of magnitude (Table 5). This allows the weavers to produce fancy effects in the filling direction.
| Company | Machine | Pick Density Range, picks/cm |
| Dornier | PTS 8/S, Rapier | 11-200 |
| Picanol | TERRYplus-6-J 260, Air Jet | 18-136 |
| Smit | G6300-S 170 N8 J, Rapier | 52-200 |
| Smit | G6300-S 140 N8 J, Rapier | 30-200 |
| Sultex | L5400 S 150 N 6 J, Air Jet | 30-130 |
| Sultex | G6200E S 140 N 8 J | 29-100 |
Variable Speed
Variable speed weaving was first introduced by Picanol at ITMA 99. With a powerful motor termed Sumo, the machine can be derived directly without belt or clutch. The starting torque is very powerful and adjustable. The beat-up force is constant from the start through out the entire weaving process. The Sumo can be programmed to run at different speeds as desired. This is useful in case of weaving different filling yarns of different attributes. For example, a weaker yarn needs to be run at low speed while another yarn can handle much higher speed. Without variable speed, the machine has to run at low speed corresponding to the weakest yarn. Picanol now provides the Sumo motor as the standard drive for all their new lines of OMNIplus and GamMax machines. At ITMA 2003, Dornier, Panter, Picanol, Promatech showed variable speed weaving machines. The highest difference in speed was shown by Dornier and Picanol (100 picks/min).
On-Loom Inspection
On-loom inspection systems were shown by EVS (LOOM-TEX), Barco (Cyclops) and Uster (Fabricscan). The on-loom inspection systems use either cameras or scanners to scan the entire fabric. The system can now be installed between the front fabric rest and take-up rolls. While this is an improvement over off-loom cloth roll and post-weaving inspection, more than one meter fabric can pass before the system can detect it. The on-loom inspection systems can identify defects, capture and store their images, report defects map, and stop the weaving process if desired.
Dornier ServoTerry
A new air jet machine by Dornier, ATVF 8/J ServoTerry, was shown weaving terry fabric with variable height loop. In this system, a servomotor replaces the traditional terry cam for pile formation, thus the reed does not drop back. The fabric is positively driven toward the reed (when the reed at the front center) to form the piles. The fabric is moved by positively driven backrest and terry bar in combination with the temples. The pile warp feed can be programmed to obtain terry fabrics with variable height loops for effect. Figure 15 shows a terry fabric with variable height loops.
Figure 15 Terry fabric with variable height loops
CONCLUSION
ITMA 2003 was a success in the weaving and weaving preparation of cotton and cotton blends products. The show brought major evolutions that will help cotton weavers to fully control their machines electronically from user friendly interfaces, produce broad range of woven fabrics, manufacture intricate jacquard designs at the speed of commodity fabrics, inspect fabrics on-loom, reduce down time due to higher level of automation.